For a straight opener swap, we pull the old unit, check the door's spring weight and balance first - an opener matched to an out-of-balance door will burn out early no matter how new it is - then set the new opener to the rail length and horsepower the door actually needs.
Because most Elburn openers we replace are failing electronically rather than mechanically, the door and track underneath are often still in decent shape. That keeps the job to the opener itself rather than turning into a full door teardown, which matters when you're 15 miles out and want the visit to cover what it's scheduled for.
We test the safety reversal sensors, program remotes and any keypad, and confirm rolling-code security is active before we leave. If the existing wall wiring is original to a 1999 build, we check it rather than assume it's still rated for the new unit's draw.